A more expressive summer ahead

On 14 and 15 October 2026, representatives of the footwear and handbag industry gathered in Antwerp for the Modeurop Colour Club Conference. The two-day event focused on preparations for the Spring/Summer 2028 season, addressing key questions: Which colours, materials and societal trends will shape collections in the seasons ahead? And what can German retailers learn from the Benelux market?

The conference began with a group visit to MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp, which is currently hosting the exhibition “The Antwerp Six”, exploring the legacy of six influential Belgian designers. A subsequent tour of Antwerp’s city centre and retail stores offered participants an opportunity to take a closer look at Belgian retail. The tour also included a visit to Dries Van Noten’s flagship store, “Het Modepaleis”. On the second day, trend presentations and discussions about the Spring/Summer 2028 season took centre stage at host company Rexor Benelux. DSI Managing Director Torben Schütz and Modeurop President Karim Choukair opened the programme.

“Yes, sneakers are still around – but the hype is over.”

With this assessment, Modeurop Creative Director Martin Wuttke of Berlin-based trend agency Nextgurunow described the changing direction of fashion. Following several seasons of restraint and quiet luxury, a countermovement is emerging for Spring/Summer 2028: maximalism, childlike playfulness and sporty influences are set to shape upcoming collections. Sportswear elements are by no means disappearing. Instead, they are increasingly being combined with feminine, romantic and decorative details.

Changing consumer needs are driving this development. Wuttke referred to the “Restorers”, a consumer group identified by trend forecasting company WGSN. In a world shaped by digital pressure, these consumers increasingly seek calm, community and meaningful experiences. According to WGSN, they are expected to become the most influential consumer group in 2028.

For Spring/Summer 2028, Modeurop Creative Directors Martin Wuttke and Uta Riechers-Wuttke have developed three trend themes based on these developments: Shifted Perspective, Poetic Journey and Magical Earth. Together, they explore new proportions, modern romance and expressive materials.

Shifted Perspective combines sporty minimalism with new silhouettes. Asymmetrical strap arrangements, innovative upper constructions and reinterpreted loafers, featuring square toes or statement buckles, create distinctive accents. Technical mesh, transparent materials and metallic leather emphasise the contemporary aesthetic.

Poetic Journey takes a decidedly more romantic direction. Floral motifs, lace, gemstones, bows and playful embellishments add decorative touches to pumps, slingbacks and sandals. At the same time, sporty elements and hybrid constructions challenge traditional feminine silhouettes.

Magical Earth places natural materials, artisanal techniques and bold colour contrasts at the forefront. Key elements include woven details, raffia, suede and reptile-embossed finishes, as well as fringes, knots and crochet textures. Familiar silhouettes are reimagined through unexpected material combinations.

“Same ambitions, different pace.”

With this statement, Niek Jansen, Managing Director of this year’s host company Rexor, summed up the differences between Germany and the Benelux countries. While German companies often take a more pragmatic, profitability-driven and long-term approach, the Benelux market is characterised by greater dynamism and faster decision-making.

In Germany, changes often require longer preparation periods and are expected to work on a larger scale from the outset. In the Benelux countries, by contrast, companies tend to be more willing to implement new ideas quickly and think beyond established boundaries.

Participants had already experienced how this approach translates into retail during the previous day’s tour of Antwerp’s city centre. Rather than interchangeable product ranges, many stores stand out through their individual character and carefully presented assortments. Although major retail chains are also present, they are complemented by numerous small, independent boutiques.

“The courage to be different is valued more highly here.”

Belgium’s retail landscape demonstrates how individual store concepts, distinctive product ranges and carefully curated selections can help retailers differentiate themselves. According to Jansen, consumers in the Benelux countries are also more willing to spend money on fashion than German shoppers.

However, this does not necessarily mean that economic conditions are more favourable. DSI Managing Director Torben Schütz had already pointed out the challenges facing the Belgian market during his opening remarks: “Others are struggling too – but they are making the best of the situation.”

One person also making the most of the circumstances is Belgian designer Tom van der Borght. Under the guiding principle “The body is not the endpoint of fashion”, he challenged conventional body ideals and familiar silhouettes in his keynote presentation. His experimental designs, featuring sculptural shapes and unusual material combinations, reflected the broader movement towards greater individuality and creative freedom.

Alongside fashion and societal developments, colour forecasts formed a central part of the conference. Modeurop’s three trend themes feature distinct colour palettes.

On one hand, powdery pastels are combined with fresh shades of green, accented by deep, rich reds and metallic finishes. Elsewhere, clear summer blues and whites, delicate rose and apricot tones, and warm cognac and brown shades create a modern, romantic palette.

The third colour direction draws more heavily on nature. Earthy beige, khaki and brown tones provide the foundation, while vibrant yellow, bold orange and intense shades of blue and violet introduce expressive contrasts.

To conclude the conference, participants developed their own colour harmonies and collages. Drawing on the trend forecasts presented, they also worked on selecting the “Magnificent 6” – the six key colours for Spring/Summer 2028 that will be incorporated into the upcoming Modeurop Colour Card.