How can the footwear industry take the driver’s seat?

Theresa Taller and Alexander König from GS1 explained what the Digital Product Passport (DPP) could look like in the future and how it could offer advantages beyond legal requirements. With its global standards in the field of barcodes, GS1 sees itself in a position to implement the DPP as an interface between trade and industry. For the time being, no obligation for shoe manufacturers is to be expected. In the footwear sector, the issue has been put on hold. A preliminary study on shoes will be conducted by 2027. A delegated act could follow in 2030.

The eight current DPP standards were recently reviewed and commented on by national committees and will be finalised in the coming months so that they can be mandatorily introduced in various industries, including textiles, in the coming years. “And if you have to do something, you might as well do it right,” argues König, explaining why the footwear industry should already be comprehensively addressing the possibilities offered by the DPP. The mandatory digital product passport means that more information about the product must be made publicly available. In order to provide more information without losing space for brand-building measures, GS1 is committed to implementing two-dimensional codes such as QR codes as an alternative to traditional barcodes. From 2028, retail checkouts worldwide will be able to scan QR codes in the same way as barcodes. Brand manufacturers will then have the option of printing just one QR code on the product, which fulfils the functions of both a barcode and the DPP. And also provides more information for the consumer.

Depending on who scans the code and when, it can lead to a different link. “If you scan a code on eggnog on Friday evening, you’ll get cocktail suggestions. On Easter weekend, you’ll get cake recipes,” Taller cites as an example.

When asked whether consumers are really interested in the DPP or whether it is only relevant for regulators, König argues: “Food manufacturers are also looking into it, even though they have been completely exempted from the Ecodesign Regulation. They assume that at some point it will become completely normal for consumers to scan the code on the product and that they will then expect the same for food.” The industry also hopes that the DPP will make it easier to check direct imports from China and refuse them entry. In this way, it could also help European industry in its function as a regulatory measure.

At the Cads “Infotag” in June, Andreas Burmeister (Wortmann) reported on the upcoming Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR). Using a packaged Tamaris shoe as an example, he impressively demonstrated everything that falls under the regulation: shoe box, hangtag with string, shaper, paper. He also suggested setting up a new working group, which has since been formed. Philipp Schmermund (Wortmann) reported on the initial results. From 16 August 2026, the PPWR will require conformity assessments and documentation to be submitted to the authorities, as well as information requirements on the packaging material. It provides for different obligations for different roles (producer, importer, distributor, supplier, manufacturer). In order to determine the role of the shoe manufacturer, the working group outlined typical standard processes in production and assigned roles within the outlines.

Starting in February, shoes must be shipped in PPWR-compliant packaging so that they can be available in stores in August. Eleven shoe manufacturers are working with Valantic to develop a manual for legally compliant and standardised implementation. The manufacturers (Astormueller, Haix, Deichmann, Gabor, Legero United, Wortmann, Leder & Schuh AG, Lloyd, Lowa, Ricosta, Rieker), each of which is currently contributing €4,000 and the corresponding personnel costs, will receive a detailed version of this manual and are calling on other players to also participate in the working group in order to better distribute the costs and effort. The more shoe manufacturers represent the same interpretation to the authorities, the more legally secure it will be.

A common understanding of the industry is also necessary when it comes to Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), warn Cads Chairman Andreas Tepest and Managing Director Torben Schütz. Until now, shoes that could no longer be worn were disposed of in the general waste, with the costs being borne by the general public. Now, a system is planned in which manufacturers are responsible for disposal and must pay fees, similar to the system established for batteries. Both the Textil+Mode Industry Association and the HDE Trade Association have made proposals for implementation in position papers. Tepest argues that neither concept paper is fully developed from the perspective of the footwear industry. While shoes are not mentioned in the industry proposal, the position of the trade association is influenced by retail companies with diverse product groups. “From their perspective, the concept should be simple and cost nothing. But we also want to reap the benefits and find a way to achieve circularity. We need to create a differentiated approach so that a recyclable shoe is taken into account by the system and not disposed of. Especially since eco-modulation is to be taken into account in the fees.” The shoe industry needs to represent its unique characteristics more strongly in comparison to other industries. After all, the recycling loop can earn significantly more with shoes than with old clothing. “Many collectors and sorters say that they can earn money with shoes, more than with clothing. This highlights the danger of the shoe industry paying disproportionately high fees and subsidising the incineration of textiles. That must not happen,” Tepest clarified.

The Cads Executive Board was also re-elected at the General Meeting. Chairman Andreas Tepest (Deichmann) and Sven Reimers (Lloyd) were confirmed in office for another three years. Markus Nelke (Lupriflex), Christian Ludy (Lowa) and Andreas Burmeister (Wortmann) were also re-elected. New to the board are Sandra Gunzinger (Gabor) and Jörg Ertl (Ricosta). The Cads advisory board consists of Sonja Arians (Baak), Susanne Diess (Diess Consulting), Karin Kapper (Legero), Olga Wedel (Wortmann) and Carolin Weidner-Cowalski (Deichmann). Managing Director Manfred Junkert was officially bid farewell. Deputy Managing Director Torben Schütz took over from him on 1 January.

The next Cads “Infotag” was supposed to take place in parallel with the convention format 069 Connect, which was planned to debut on 24 and 25 June but eventually got cancelled. The new date and place is yet to be announced. The general meeting could also be moved to a new date. Members will be asked whether it should continue to take place in December or instead in January. Whether the general meeting should return to taking place in the summer and the “Infotag” in the winter in the long term will also be discussed in the near future.